The last tailoring factory on a street that was historically the heart of Melbourne's rag trade is set to move to Carlton in the wake of rising CBD rents and post-COVID business challenges.
When Andy Kosar opened Houndstooth Tailors at 333 Flinders Lane in 2019, he knew he was channeling Melbourne's clothing history into a tiered workshop.
The workshop has been in ownership for six generations and has been in operation since 1905.
Flinders Lane was a center for the textile industry throughout the 20th century. It's a one-stop shop with haberdashers, tailors, belt makers and other clothing manufacturers lining the street.
The workshop, now Houndstooth, was able to survive the decline of the rag trade in the 1960s and 70s because of its focus on government work, including producing uniforms and ceremonial clothing for Victoria Police. .
The workshop started out as a manufacturer only, then did alterations, and when Mr. Kosar bought the business, began producing made-to-measure suits.
“It's sad to see this workshop move,” Kosar told CBD News. “I remember when I first started selling suits I came here and asked the tailors if they could teach me how to sew.'' And one of them said, “No, I need to go learn first and then…'' Please come here.'' ”
“Since then, I've gone from selling suits to teaching sewing classes on Saturday mornings. I remember a friend of mine saying, 'Why are you doing this?' I said, “If I don't do it, who will?'' It's a dying deal. ”
Before the pandemic, the majority of Houndstooth's customers were office workers.
Kosar said he could count on one hand the number of wedding suits that Houndstooth made at the time.
However, since lockdown, many business customers have continued to work from home for all or most of the week.
As a result, 60 percent of Houndstooth's business comes from weddings and 40 percent from businesses.
While there are still a few tailors in other areas of the CBD that make bespoke suits, Houndtooth is the only one that also makes its own suits.
The store's Flinders Lane lease expired in January, and Mr Kosar is now preparing to sign a lease for the new store.
Although the workshop itself will be relocated to Carlton, the company hopes to keep the Houndstooth showroom in the city.
He looks forward to continuing to do what he loves.
“What makes us a little different is that we make bespoke (clothing). Sometimes people come in with the weirdest things,” he said. “I made a women's A-line skirt out of crocodile leather that was made for a sofa. I was like, 'OK, let's take it.' I'll try anything I can find a needle and thread. ”
“Tailoring is a beautiful thing,” Kosar said. “The work the tailors do here is amazing, turning flat fabric into finished garments.”
“When I see someone's face change when they have something made for them, that's what keeps me going. If you do, you will never be able to go back, so this is a dangerous game.''
